Consider the starters of steak tartare and dressed Consider the starters of steak tartare and dressed - ImagesGram

Consider the starters of steak tartare and dressed

A bird lands on the antlers of a deer in Dublin’s Phoenix Park as the rutting seasons begins.
The bill here will still be sizeable – the wine list has massive choice at 40, but sod all below that – but there is a lightness about the experience which will allow you to pretend you haven’t gone bankrupt to pay for lunch. Consider the starters of steak tartare and dressed Cornish crab, of duck liver parfait or London particular, that brilliant green pea soup with the textural shock of crisped bacon. 

Black Forest comes from the patisserie side of the dessert ledger, and is the sort you tend only to find coming from hotel kitchens, with a dedicated cold chocolate room. A vertical cylinder of perfectly tempered dark chocolate is filled with all the things – a dark chocolate sponge and a light chocolate mousse, cherries and kirsch and a little bright light cherry sorbet – that you would wish to find. It’s a glamorous, shiny way to finish. If you don’t want to eat it, you could wear it as a fascinator.
Friday 29 September 2017 16.04 BST.